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@@canada2241 You're welcome. You should be able to do it with that part, some pliers, and a little screwdriver. It's pretty quick and easy once you know what you're looking form I did it as an emergency road side repair on a side street. If you haven't, remember to subscribe. Thank you.

37ft lbs for the cover, 25ft lbs for the plug.

37ft lbs for the cover, 25ft lbs for the plug.

@@mjgalimah1517 Those are in rubber holders. The rubber expands and stretches. You just need to pull and wiggle enough and they'll come out.

@@youngheng5819 Check the weight required for you car for a full charge. I'm guessing with that, you'll need 2-3 cans though. Most cars, not SUVs are between 1 to 2 cans.

@@phathomthis but can use right ?

@@youngheng5819 Yes, you use the same method for any car. The adapter goes on standard tools that used the old cans and the tool works on any car AC system. It only goes on one of the ports so you can't mess that part up. Just don't over fill it and take your time. Do it slowly and add a little bit at a time works good, too much at a time and you can over pressurize some of the system.

Normally I'd agree, with stupid changes they make, like switching to r-134a back in the day, which is worse performing than what we had. But these new cans are cool because if you don't end up using the whole can, you can save the rest for later. Now what the price of them has more than doubled since I did this video, saving extra is recommended to save some money.

You madlad!

Both this one from Amazon and the Fram ones I've bought at the store haven't had any arrow markings. This particular filter was identical on both sides though, no carbon filter or anything, which would normally be installed on the incoming air side (up). You do bring up a good point I didn't cover in this video because there was no mark. If you do get an OEM filter the arrow points up and you install it that way. If you get an aftermarket filter that says airflow and an arrow, the arrow points down, in the direction of the air flow.

Yes and no. Let me explain. Per Ford/Motorcraft about this specific diff fluid, "Note: For a complete drain and refill, some limited-slip axles require addition of Friction Modifier, Part Number XL-3 meeting Ford specification EST-M2C118-A. Refer to Workshop Manual or Owner’s Guide." So while some diffs may not need it, others do when doing a drain and fill, which we are doing here. It having some is more for topping off the fluid than a full change. That being said, the service manual for these trucks DOES say you need the XL-3 additive for the limited slip differentials in this model of F-150. Could you get away without using it? Sure. Should you? Ask yourself this, "Is cheaping out on a $7 bottle of fluid once every 150k miles worth gambling your differential?"

Let's see the video on the one you built? Also mine passed inspection and is doing just fine 4 years later.

@@phathomthis 10 foot 4x4 beams cut down to half laps on the center posts, holding 2x6 rafters, hanging off the edge of a 2x8 "header" (ledger). No you did not pass inspection. Blaming 'twisty' boards or 'not straight' plywood for not blocking and laying rafters on center. The shingles aren't even overlapped properly. This is not an example to follow.

@@gobuchul74Once again, where is your video showing thd right way to do it then?

You have very good questions and concerns and I will do my best to answer all these for you. How do you know your digital is accurate? I have several gauges, all read the same pressure within 0.5 psi. I get where the misconception about digital gauges comes from. SOME digital gauges retain a bit of a memory, where you check the pressure, add or decrease air and check again and they come up with the same reading. This is easily prevented by doing what the manufacturers of the gauges recommend doing and reseting (turning the power off and on again) the gauge between readings. This allows it to recalibrate to zero and give an accurate reading. This is the same as turning on your bathroom scale. You tap it, let it zero, then you step on. The tire shop saying they use old school gauges because of experience and the fact they say they change them out every 2 weeks shows that 1: They don't know what they're talking about or 2: That old school gauges are unreliable because they go out so often. Either way it's a problem. As for tire shop workers saying to put more air in than recommended? Well that's a cop out. Have you ever watched them inflate tires after putting them on the rim? I have nearly every single time I have gotten tires my entire life. Do they inflate it, check pressure, and adjust accordingly? No. They put the locking chuck on and walk away until it hits their preset pressure and stops. Do they adjust this based on what vehicle or tire they are working on? No. They use the lowest pressure for tires that commonly come in, which is normally light truck and SUV tires. For example an Expedition requires 39psi and a Chevy 2500 pickup requires 60psi in the front and 80psi in the rear. A Smaller passenger tires get overinflated and big oversized truck tires get under inflated as the tire shops typically keep these set to 40-50psi as the average. They are telling you to put more in as an excuse for them overinflating your tires by using an autoinflator that's set higher than your recommended pressure. I can tell you that from the dozens of times I have gotten tires for all mine and my customer's vehicles, and fleet vehicles over the years, I have had the pressure set to the correct pressure (within 5 psi mind you) exactly one time. Every other time they are either 8-20 or even 30 or 40 psi higher or in the case of larger vehicles, they still have the TPMS light on for being 10-20psi low and have been told by the tire shop "just drive it more and it'll go off". None of it is to your advantage, it is all BS excuses on why they are either too lazy or in too much of a hurry to properly inflate your tires. Too much PSI will lead to excessive wear in the center of the tire, loose handling, reduce braking, and less traction as the footprint of the tire is reduced. Filling your tire to 35psi instead of 32psi isn't going to affect much, but filling it up to 40, 50, or 60 psi absolutely will. This of course is with regular loads, if you are carrying a lot of weight, definitely increase your air pressure while loaded down. I hope this helped.

A 4x10 vertically should have enough structural integrity for that length of run. As you see here, I did a 10' run for each 4x4. A 4x10 for an additional 2 feet would work great. You could probably get away with a 4x6 as well, so long as it is vertical.

What hose in particular? Like where does the left side of the hose I replaced go?

@@phathomthis see how there are 2 hoses on the passenger side and you replaced the one on the right? Where does that one on the left go that you didn’t work on?

@exurosanctus I think you're talking about where the hoses hit the firewall. At the firewall, those two connections are to the heater core, that's inside the truck in the dash. It's what gets heat to your HVAC system. The heater core has an in and an out. The one I replaced that goes to the water pump outlet and the other one you asked about goes back into the block. It's part # BL3Z-18472-H

@@phathomthis thank you so much, really appreciate the reply. Just what I needed.

www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech-articles/identify-your-ford-truck-axle-from-the-door-sticker/

Check the axle code on your door sticker and compare it here. It should tell you if it's limited slip or not. Limited slip, use the additive. Not limited slip, you don't have to, but it doesn't hurt.

Oh okay yea I just checked and it’s limited slip so I literally got the same oil and limited slip additive, but what about the friction modifer additive

@@isaactays9257 Anything else is not needed. Just the gear oil and limited slip additive.

@@thetir0 Now there's end caps full of them at Walmart. They finally caught up with the new cans and everyone having the older tools. I have a full manifold setup now and it works on both without adapter.

I picked mine up at either AutoZone or O'Reilly

Bought the last one at Autozone in Las Cruces.

Yes. It should work on any internal combustion engine car with AC.

Correct. There are 2 types of cans now, the original ones that the old connectors worked with and the new self sealing ones that you need a new connector or an adapter like I have here.

@@phathomthis Thanks for your support. I was very frustrated and the adapter worked, air is ice cold. :) Now I need a can to put a little oil in it, less mess that way.

Walmart has the adapter for $6

@@renerosete6851 yes I got it auto zone for 4

@@renerosete6851 it is working very cold.

None on the rear. Those were for the front.

I don't Understand

​@@luisponce1472Sorry, I just saw this reply. Ths pouches were for the front differential. I was doing both as part of my 150k mile service.

I did after the fact. It worked really well, intake temps became ambient air temps instead of 10-25 degrees hotter

@@phathomthis That’s great!

Looking from the front of the truck like you just opened the hood, the closest cylinder to your left is cylinder 1, going back yoh have 2 and then 3. The closest cylinder to your right is cylinder 4 and going back you have 5 and then 6. 1-2-3 on the left closest to you to furthest. 4-5-6 on your right closest to you to furthest.

@@phathomthis thank you!!

It sounds pretty good. There's not too much of a drone, but it is noticeably louder. This car doesn't have much for soundproofing and you could hear it anyway. I'd say in the car it's about 20% louder. I don't even notice unless I'm trying to make a phone call. Then I make sure to keep it under 60.

@@phathomthis the video clip doesnt do it justice i own a 2005 toyota matrix xrs i still have my oem muffler it sounds like a jet ski at times i have never heard it from the outside and wondered what it would sound like with out the muffler do you have a video of what it sounds like doing highway speeds?!?

@@9kia8 Sorry for the super late response. I don't have a video of that. I could take one the next time I'm out though, at least from the inside. At certain RPMs it's louder, but not too loud. Like you can still hold a conversation in the car and hear the radio just fine, but on a Bluetooth call you want the windows up and kinda watch your RPMs a bit. IIRC between 2800-3500 is the loudest.